March
31, 2006, 5 pm
Hello from Mexico City – A Compact Day
of Discovery of Downtown (A Skyscraper, Beautiful Palaces, Rodin Sculptures,
A Little Horse, the "House of Tiles" and a Government Pawn
Shop)
This Friday morning the chirping tropical birds in the courtyard
outside the building woke me up early. Vanessa had fixed a real
Mexican breakfast: fruit – melon and papaya, with yogurt and
sweat bread. Appropriately strengthened we got going early at 8:45
to start exploring Mexico City.
Our explorations started with a ride on a public bus on the Eje
Central, one of the main streets of Mexico City. It took us straight
to “La Torre Latinoamericana”, Mexico’s famous
44-story skyscraper. Completed in 1956, this skyscraper has survived
a number of earthquakes, most notably the big earthquake of 1985
which destroyed big sections of Mexico City. From the cafeteria
on the 42nd floor we had a great 360 degree view over the city,
although the smoggy atmosphere impeded our visibility.

La Torre Latinoamericana
After getting a good lay of the land, we descended and exited through
the rear doors of la Torre Latinoamericana and realized that a big
exhibit of Rodin sculptures was in town. We saw a variety of statues
by the famous French sculptor, including the Thinker. The environment
behind the Torre Latinoamericana was also really interesting since
some of the buildings right next to this skyscraper are in very
bad repair and formed a very interesting backdrop to this exhibition.
I assume that these buildings were damaged in the big earthquake
of 1985.

Rodin's sculptures were in town
Our next stop was at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, an Art Nouveau
style theatre or opera house. The interior holds murals by some
of the famous Mexican artists of the 20th century, including Diego
Rivera, José Clemente Orozco, David Al faro Siqueiros and
Rufino Tamayo. The Palacio was originally started in 1905 by an
Italian architect, and was not completed until 1934 as the Mexican
Revolution intervened. This explains the Art Deco interior of this
fascinating building.
The beautiful Palacio de Bellas Artes
We continued our walk towards the Alameda Central – Mexico
City’s famous park whose name is derived from the “alamos”
or poplar trees that were planted here in the 16th century. The
Alameda Central holds a variety of different statues, including
one of Beethoven and one of Neptune. The most imposing monument
is the so-called “Hemiciclo a Juarez”, a semi-circular
marble monument dedicated to Mexico’s reformist president
of indigenous background.

The "Hemiciclo a Juarez"
A few steps away from the Alameda Central we had a look at the
Museo Mural Diego Rivera which exhibits one of Rivera’s greatest
masterpieces: Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda Central.
This mural has huge dimensions and was originally created for the
Hotel Prado and includes a lot of symbolism and references to Mexico’s
history.
The "Caballito" (Little Horse) on the Paseo de la Reforma
After taking in Diego Rivera’s huge mural we headed towards
Mexico’s grandest street: The Paseo de la Reforma. This broad,
tree-lined street was originally laid out in the 1860s, during the
short-lived reign of Emperor Maximilian. At the intersection with
Avenida Benito Juarez is the Caballito (the “Little
Horse”), one of the city’s landmarks. We continued on
past the the Hotel Imperial to the Monumento a la Revolución.
This was dictator Porfirio Diaz’ unfinished congress building,
that was later turned into a monument to the 1910 revolution by
the people who got rid of him.
The Monumento a la Revolución
Then we passed back on Calle Juarez to the Casa de los Azulejos,
the “House of Tiles” dating back to the 16th century.
It features a beautiful Moorish-style interior and has been turned
into a Sanborns restaurant. On the landing of the stairs between
the first and second floor it features a mural by José Clemente
Orozco, which amazingly surrounds the bathrooms.

Diego Rivera's famous mural: Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the
Alameda Central
We slowly made our way towards the Zócalo, first visiting
the brand-new Museo de Arte Popular. It is housed in a historic
building with a big courtyard that is located close to the Torre
Latinoamericana and holds all sorts of typically Mexican artifacts,
including traditional clothing, sombreros, decorations, silver work
and various types of jewellery as well as typical symbols of Mexico
such as the Calaveras (the ever-popular and colourful skeletons
so enjoyed by Mexicans).
"Calaveras" (skeletons) in the Museo de Arte Popular
We explored the local neighbourhood, visiting the one-street Chinatown,
passed by a wonderful pastry shop (la Dulcería Celaya)
where Vanessa introduced me to delicious Mexican sweets and
then we discovered Mexico’s biggest pawnshop: the government-run
Nacional Monte de Piedad, a beautiful monumental building
made of dark volcanic stone that dates back to the 16th century.
We were both commenting on the irony that people in Mexico still
like to buy and sell gold jewellery although for safety reasons
they are not able to wear it openly on the street.
Our next stop was a discovery of Mexico’s
Zócalo and the enormous Catedral Metropolitana.
Useful Books:
Related Articles:
Mexico 2006 - My cultural immersion
experiment
Hello from Mexico City - First impressions
Hello from Mexico City - A skyscraper,
a little horse and a government pawn shop
Hello from Mexico City - The Zócalo,
the Cathedral, a healing ritual and a university dedicated to a
16th century female poet
Hello from Mexico City - A relaxing
evening in Coyoacán
Hello from Mexico City - Exploring the
Paseo de la Reforma, de Bosque de Chapúltepec and a nice
evening in San Angel
Hello from Cuernavaca - Arrival and
first impressions
Hello from Cuernavaca - Getting to know
my B&B hostess Marta Elena: A true riches to rags story
Hello from Cuernavaca - My first day
learning Spanish and two local icons: the Robert Brady Museum and
the Jardín Borda
Hello from Cuernavaca - A lovely dinner
in a garden paradise
Hello from Cuernavaca - An excursion
to Las Estacas, checking out orchids and a meeting at El Cafecito
Hello from Cuernavaca - An excursion
to Lake Tequesquitengo and a visit to the doctor
Hello from Cuernavaca - A conversation
with Andy Grater, local B&B owner and President of the Newcomers
Club
Hello from Cuernavaca - A presentation
about ecology at the Newcomers Club Meeting
Hello from Cuernavaca - Opening of a
South African photo exhibition and a visit to the Palacio de Cortés
Hello from Taxco - The city that silver built
Hello from Taxco during Semana Santa - The
famous Palm Sunday Procession
Hello from Cuernavaca - A new language
school, visiting 'Casa Vamos' and an evening with a very sad ending
Hello from Cuernavaca - My most intense
day: more language studies, 3 interviews, a guided eco-hike and
dinner at the Marco Polo
Hello from Cuernavaca - A day outing
to the enchanting mythical village of Tepoztlan
Hello from Cuernavaca - My last day
of school and a visit to Cuernavaca's Spring Fair
Hello from Taxco - An eerie experience: Visiting
Taxco's famous Good Friday procession
Hello from Taxco and Cuernavaca - Interviewing
one of the penitentes and enjoying my last day in Mexico
Related Interviews:
Presenting:
Ruben Córtes from Morelos Trails - Local adventure sports
and cultural guided tour operator, expert on Morelos and Cuernavaca
Presenting: Pablo
Buitrón from Fundacion Comunidad, helping local
women empower themselves
Presenting: Jorge Torres from
the Cetlalic Alternative Language School - Learning Spanish with
cultural, social and political awareness
Presenting: Hermilo Brito
from the Ideal Language School - Making Spanish learning fun
Helpful links:
Mexico
Tourism Information
State
of Morelos Tourism Organization
Official
website of the City of Cuernavaca tourism
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